Ever wanted to build your own rock buggy but
didn't know where to start? Here's one way to jumpstart your project.
I am offering the plans for the chassis I designed and built as documented
here. Advantages
of my designs include:
The ability to pull the transmission and transfer case without
pulling the motor (via the lower skid plate).
No bars near your head (unlike many homebuilt chassis designs).
A cockpit that is big enough to keep you from hanging outside of the
chassis when seated.
A suspension that works excellent for both crawling and climbing.

This chassis was originally designed as a 3
seater with room for two full sized Beard (or equivalent) seats up front and a smaller child
sized seat out back.

Don't need 3 seats? You can easily shorten
the roof, realign the rear down bars and have a 2 seater with plenty of storage
space for camping gear or spare parts. Or shorten the back end even more
and make it smaller and lighter.
 
Here's a few more pictures of one possible 2
seater configuration. You are really only limited by your imagination as
far as how short/long to make the back end.
Here's the basic parts I designed this chassis
around:
Motors
Suzuki: 1.3, 1.6 or 2.0l motor should fit
with a Samurai or Sidekick 5 speed and Samurai transfer case. I used to
run a Toyota 5 speed
transmission (85 4x4 Pickup) mated to a 1.6 16v motor via an
SOS Ringr
adapter. A stock Samurai radiator fits
perfect up front.
Toyota: 22re (2.2l), 2rz
(2.4l), 3.4l, 2rz(2.4l) or 3rz (2.7l) motor found in various Toyota pickups could also be
used with a 5 speed transmission and dual Toyota transfer cases. If
you run an automatic a 3.4l Toyota V6 should also fit.
Domestic: A Pontiac 3.8l V6,
Chevy 4.3l V6, Chevy 4.8/5.3/5.7/6.0/LT1, Ford 5.0l to name a few.
An automatic transmission is prefered as it makes the drive train length shorter and allows you to
push the motor back to leave enough room up front for a good sized
radiator. A 26 x 19" double pass Ron Davis radiator fits if you lay
it back at an angle (this particular radiator keeps my supercharged 3.8l motor
plenty cool). A manual transmission will work but wheelbase
will need to be 102" or above.
Larger motors have been installed by other builders (including big
blocks). Really if you think about it the difference between a
4.3 V6 and 5.3 V8 is only a few inches in length and the chassis is
very easy to modify if you want to make the fenders a bit wider to
accommodate whatever it is you want to use to power this chassis.
In addition, the belly pan of the chassis is left wide open to allow
the transfer case and transmission to be removed from the vehicle
without pulling the engine.
Pictures
and build up notes for a Supercharged 3.8l install can be seen here.
Axles: I am running Toyota truck axles from an 85
4x4. Pretty much any solid axle can be made to fit. I have
personally run 1985 Toyota truck axles as well as narrowed D60's
(60" wms to wms) under this chassis.
Suspension: The skies the limit. I run a
dual triangulated 4 link front and
rear utilizing 2.0" coilovers. Wheelbase in the plans is
approximately 108" and with 37" tires the belly is approximately 23" above the
ground. The wheelbase and belly clearance can be changed to suit your needs. For
further suspension information please read thru all of my project buildups
starting with Project BMP up thru Hellraiser 4 as well as my 4 link write ups in
the tech section.
Moab
Hot Tub video clip.
Upper
Helldorado waterfall video clip.
Steering: Full hydraulic via a double ended
steering ram. A single ended steering ram could be used but you will need
to modify the front link setup.
Tires: With the Toyota axles and 2"
backspacing on the rims up to a 39" tire should fit fine. A
narrow 42" tire also fits. With full width axles a tire larger than
42" in diameter could be used.
 
Specs:
Outside of rocker to outside of rocker is 58.2", outside of door bar
to outside of door bar is 53.6". Belly to highest point on the
roof is 54" and length from front bumper to rear most tube is
133.4". Estimated chassis weight is 250-330lbs depending on bracing.

The plans you will receive are laser printed on (31) 11 x 17 sized sheets of
paper. I have broken down the entire chassis into stages, the sheets
in the above example are from stage 5 and show the suggested roof bars and bracing.
8 of these sheets are drawings of some of the link mount plates and tabs, switch
mount box, seat rails and the rear upper link mount bracket. These should
help you if you want to duplicate the suspension I used. Also, keep in mind, at
any time you can change the angles or bracing for a different look if desired.
*** Note - I am not releasing the solid models at this time.

Things to keep in mind:
1. I make no warranties of any kind for the performance or durability of this
chassis. You are buying plans only. If you chose to fabricate something
using these plans you assume all risk in the fabrication and operation of the
project.
2. You will need a basic knowledge of tube bending and access to a tube
bender, welder, chop saw, etc. Access to a plasma cutter or cutting torch would
be very helpful but is not required. The chassis is designed around 1 5/8 tubing
with a bend radius of 4.5"***. Larger tubing or bend radii could be
used with some minor adjustments to the initial tube lengths. There are no bends
over 90 degrees,
*** It has been brought to my attention that the 4.5" radius die is no
longer available from JD2. If using a 5.5" radius die you need to start all
90 degree bends an inch sooner (you can scale bends smaller than 90 degree's
back from there) and the cut lengths can be approx .40" less than what is
shown on the drawing.
3. The plans are meant to be a guide. Since there is no way to
get the bends to match the plans %100 expect to have to make small adjustments.
Even as I built the first chassis I would double check dimensions when I started
on the next tube and if in doubt I would leave a little extra for the cut
length. The plans do have suggested cut lengths and start points for the
bends. It will be your responsibility to cope the tube ends. In
spots where there are straight braces I usually provide a recommended tube size
and length, however in most cases your best bet is to measure the distance
between the nodes to determine the cut length.
4. The plans only cover the dimensions of the basic chassis. This
means gussets, mounting tabs, suspension related mounts on the axles, body
panels, component mounts, etc are your responsibility. However, I will
suggest locations for motor mounts, suspension link mounts and air shock mounts.
There are detailed pictures of all the brackets I made as well as sources for
most of the components I used on my build up pages
starting here.
I will be including drawings of some of the
larger link mount plates, this should simplify your work if you want to
duplicate my suspension. I am also creating a set of web pages which will
have even more, larger pictures of the various stages for those who purchase the
plans.
5. I will include a recommended list of material for the basic chassis.
You may want to purchase additional material if you would like to leave extra
material on the cuts or if you feel you may have to re-do a section of tubing.
For costing purposes I used approximately 8 sticks of 1.625 x
.120 DOM, and 2 sticks of the following: 1.50 x .095 and 1.50 x .120
for the main chassis bracing. To save money you can get away with
using HREW for any piece of tubing that does not contact rocks.
6. I am approximately 5' 10" tall and fit in the chassis well. If
you are taller you can increase the roof height and hood height a good 6 inches
and still not sacrifice visibility.
The plans are available now and cost $85 which includes shipping to anywhere in the Continental US and Canada. For payment via credit card, debit card or
PayPal click on the "Buy
Now" button below. As a bonus I also throw in 2 free DVD's (currently BTG Volume
3 & 3.5) so you can see what your new chassis can do. the bonus DVD offer
is only available to buyers in the US. International orders are $98.
Note- you do not need a Paypal account to use your
debit or credit card.
If you have any questions feel free to send an e-mail to
sales@azrockcrawler.com, |