Ever wanted to build your own rock buggy but didn't know where to start?  Here's one way to jumpstart your project.  I am offering the plans for the chassis I designed and built as documented here. Advantages of my designs include:

The ability to pull the transmission and transfer case without pulling the motor (via the lower skid plate).

No bars near your head (unlike many homebuilt chassis designs).

A cockpit that is big enough to keep you from hanging outside of the chassis when seated.

A suspension that works excellent for both crawling and climbing (I have seen at least one person crawl Upper Helldorado in one of these chassis). 

This chassis was originally designed as a 3 seater with room for two full sized Beard (or equivalent) seats up front and a smaller child sized seat out back.

Don't need 3 seats?  You can easily shorten the roof, realign the rear down bars and have a 2 seater with plenty of storage space for camping gear or spare parts.  Or shorten the back end even more and make it smaller and lighter.

Here's a few more pictures of one possible 2 seater configuration.  You are really only limited by your imagination as far as how short/long to make the back end.

Here's the basic parts I designed this chassis around:

Motors

Suzuki: 1.3, 1.6 or 2.0l motor should fit with a Samurai or Sidekick 5 speed and Samurai transfer case.  I used to run a Toyota 5 speed transmission (85 4x4 Pickup) mated to a 1.6 16v motor via an SOS Ringr adapter. A stock Samurai radiator fits perfect up front.

Toyota: 22re (2.2l), 2rz (2.4l), 3.4l, 2rz(2.4l) or 3rz (2.7l) motor found in various Toyota pickups could also be used with a 5 speed transmission and dual Toyota transfer cases. If you run an automatic a 3.4l Toyota V6 should also fit.

Domestic: A Pontiac 3.8l V6, Chevy 4.3l V6, Chevy 4.8/5.3/5.7/6.0/LT1, Ford 5.0l to name a few. An automatic transmission is preferred as it makes the drive train length shorter and allows you to push the motor back to leave enough room up front for a good sized radiator. A 26 x 19" double pass Ron Davis radiator fits if you lay it back at an angle (this particular radiator keeps my supercharged 3.8l motor plenty cool). A manual transmission will work but wheelbase will need to be 102" or above.

Larger motors have been installed by other builders (including big blocks).  Really if you think about it the difference between a 4.3 V6 and 5.3 V8 is only a few inches in length and the chassis is very easy to modify if you want to make the fenders a bit wider to accommodate whatever it is you want to use to power this chassis.

In addition, the belly pan of the chassis is left wide open to allow the transfer case and transmission to be removed from the vehicle without pulling the engine.

 Pictures and build up notes for a Supercharged 3.8l install can be seen here.

Axles: I am running Toyota truck axles from an 85 4x4.  Pretty much any solid axle can be made to fit.  I have personally run 1985 Toyota truck axles as well as narrowed D60's (60" wms to wms) under this chassis.

Suspension: The skies the limit. I run a dual triangulated 4 link front and rear utilizing 2.0" coilovers. Wheelbase in the plans is approximately 108" and with 37" tires the belly is approximately 23" above the ground. The wheelbase and belly clearance can be changed to suit your needs. For further suspension information please read thru all of my project buildups starting with Project BMP up thru Hellraiser 4 as well as my 4 link write ups in the tech section.

Moab Hot Tub video clip.

Upper Helldorado waterfall video clip.

Steering: Full hydraulic via a double ended steering ram.  A single ended steering ram could be used but you will need to modify the front link setup.

Tires:  With the Toyota axles and 2" backspacing on the rims up to a 39" tire should fit fine.  A narrow 42" tire also fits. With full width axles a tire larger than 42" in diameter could be used.

Specs:  Outside of rocker to outside of rocker is 58.2", outside of door bar to outside of door bar is 53.6".  Belly to highest point on the roof is 54" and length from front bumper to rear most tube is 133.4". Estimated chassis weight is 250-330lbs depending on bracing.

The plans you will receive are laser printed on 11 x 17 sized sheets of paper.  I have broken down the entire chassis into stages and include a suggested order of assembly guide to help you build your chassis.  The guide lists how I would tackle the chassis build and notes when you should mock up major systems and suggests other systems that need to be considered at that stage. The sheets in the above example are from stage 5 and show the suggested roof bars and bracing.  8 of these sheets are drawings of some of the link mount plates and tabs, switch mount box, seat rails and the rear upper link mount bracket.  These should help you if you want to duplicate the suspension I used. Also, keep in mind, at any time you can change the angles or bracing for a different look if desired.

*** Note - I am not releasing the solid models at this time.

Things to keep in mind:

1. I make no warranties of any kind for the performance or durability of this chassis.  You are buying plans only. If you chose to fabricate something using these plans you assume all risk in the fabrication and operation of the project.

2.  You will need a basic knowledge of tube bending and access to a tube bender, welder, chop saw, etc. Access to a plasma cutter or cutting torch would be very helpful but is not required. The chassis is designed around 1 5/8 tubing with a bend radius of 4.5"***.  Larger tubing  or bend radii could be used with some minor adjustments to the initial tube lengths.  There are no bends over 90 degrees,

*** It has been brought to my attention that the 4.5" radius die is no longer available from JD2. If using a 5.5" radius die you need to start all 90 degree bends an inch sooner (you can scale bends smaller than 90 degree's back from there) and the cut lengths can be approx .40" less than what is shown on the drawing.   

3.  The plans are meant to be a guide.  Since there is no way to get the bends to match the plans %100 expect to have to make small adjustments.  Even as I built the first chassis I would double check dimensions when I started on the next tube and if in doubt I would leave a little extra for the cut length.  The plans do have suggested cut lengths and start points for the bends.  It will be your responsibility to cope the tube ends.  In spots where there are straight braces I usually provide a recommended tube size and length, however in most cases your best bet is to measure the distance between the nodes to determine the cut length.