This chassis is also available "buggy" style with tapered rear down
tubes. Both the pickup and buggy 2 seaters utilize a sub frame that is based off
of my original 3 seater design but it is wide open to allow for all sorts of
Looking for a shorter wheelbase? This chassis can go down to a
100" wheelbase without modifications to the sub frame. Shorter
wheelbases are possible but I would recommend shortening the belly
tubing for anything under 100" wheelbase. The above pictures
in orange show a 100" wheelbase and 37" tires.
Customizing the chassis is very straightforward, so for example the bed
can be wider, longer, or shorter, etc.
The chassis I am building from these plans is even deviating
further with the addition of a 3rd seat. The blueprints of the
pickup will detail
two front end options, one low and one higher. Either would be
good candidates for a cut down OEM grill if you wanted to follow
thru with the truck theme.
Outside of rocker to outside of rocker is 55.62", outside of door bar
to outside of door bar is also 55.62". Belly to highest point on the
roof is 53.62" and length from front bumper to rear most tube is
139". Estimated chassis weight is 300-350lbs depending on bracing.
As always some of the advantages of my designs include:
The ability to pull the transmission and transfer case without
pulling the motor (via the lower skid plate).
No bars near your head (unlike many homebuilt chassis designs).
A cockpit that is big enough to keep you from hanging outside of the
chassis when seated.
A suspension that works excellent for both crawling and climbing.
As per the FAQ:
Pretty much anything can be made to fit. 4
cylinders are no problem and most 60 degree V6's are actually more
compact than a lot of the inline 4's currently out there (Suzuki
1.3/1.6, Toyota 2.4/2.7l, etc). About the only engines that
would give me pause are 90 degree V8's like a Ford 5.4L or 4.6L
since they are so darn wide. That said It is
easy to make adjustments to the chassis so if you did have a blown
5.4L and wanted it in the chassis you could as long as you were
willing to put up with a wider front end. Inline 6's present
another problem - length. You'd have to stretch the nose of
each chassis a few inches (assuming a front mounted radiator) except
for the BMP 2 seater which was designed with a Jeep 4.0l drive train in
If you go with a rear mounted radiator you should be
able to fit just about anything.
For reference my 3.8L/904/D300 is roughly 54" long (pulleys to
rear output), 28" Tall (oil pan to top of motor) and 22" wide at the valve
Axles: Whatever you
Suspension: The skies the limit. I ran a
dual triangulated 4 link front and
rear utilizing 2.0" coilovers and provide the numbers to duplicate this
link setup. Wheelbase in the plans is
approximately 110" and with 40" tires the belly is approximately 21" above the
ground. The wheelbase and belly clearance can be changed to suit your needs. For
further suspension information
see the FAQ.
The plans you will receive are laser printed on 11 x 17
sized sheets of paper. I have broken down the entire chassis
into stages and include a suggested order of assembly guide to help
you build your chassis. The guide lists how I would tackle the
chassis build and notes when you should mock up major systems and
suggests other systems that need to be considered at that stage.
Things to keep in mind:
1. I make no warranties of any kind for the performance or durability of this
chassis. You are buying plans only. If you chose to fabricate something
using these plans you assume all risk in the fabrication and operation of the
2. You will need a basic knowledge of tube bending and access to a tube
bender, welder, chop saw, etc. Access to a plasma cutter or cutting torch would
be very helpful but is not required. The chassis is designed around 1 5/8
tubing with a bend radius of 4.5"***. Larger tubing or bend radii
could be used with some adjustments to the initial tube lengths. there are
no bends over 90 degrees.
*** It has been brought to my attention that the 4.5" radius die is no longer
available from JD2. See
the FAQ here for information on compensating for different die sizes. It is
actually a very quick and easy adjustment to accommodate larger bend radius
3. The plans are meant to be a guide. Since there is no way to
get the bends to match the plans %100 expect to have to make small adjustments.
The plans do have suggested cut lengths and start points for the
bends. It will be your responsibility to cope the tube ends. In
spots where there are straight braces I usually provide a recommended tube size
and length, however in most cases your best bet is to measure the distance
between the nodes to determine the actual cut length.
4. The plans only cover the dimensions of the basic chassis. This
means gussets, mounting tabs, suspension related mounts on the axles, body
panels, component mounts, and all interior mounting tubing, etc are your
5. I will include a recommended list of material for the basic chassis.
You may want to purchase additional material if you would like to leave extra
material on the cuts or if you feel you may have to re-do a section of tubing.
For costing purposes I used approximately (8) 20ft sticks of 1.625 x .120
DOM, and (2) 20ft sticks of the following: 1.50 x .095 and 1.50 x .120 for
the main chassis bracing. To save money you can get away with using HREW for any piece of tubing that does not contact rocks.
The plans cost $120 which includes all drawings on 11 x 17 paper; shipping is
included in that price to any confirmed address in the
Continental US. If you would like two different sets of plans you can select the
pick 2 option; please specify the second set in the notes field.
I do not offer electronic versions. See below for international
purchasing instructions. As a bonus I
also throw in 4 free DVD's: BTG Volume 1, 3, 3.5 & 4 so you can see what your new
chassis can do. the bonus DVD offer is only available to buyers in the US.
All packages ship USPS, please allow 1-2 weeks for domestic orders
although actual ship times are usually much faster.
Note- you do not need a PayPal account to use your
debit or credit card.