This chassis is also available "buggy" style with tapered rear down tubes. Both the pickup and buggy 2 seaters utilize a sub frame that is based off of my original 3 seater design but it is wide open to allow for all sorts of interiors.

Customizing the chassis is very straightforward, so for example the bed can be wider, longer, or shorter, etc.  The chassis I am building from these plans is even deviating further with the addition of a 3rd seat. The blueprints of the pickup will detail two front end options, one low and one higher.  Either would be good candidates for a cut down OEM grill if you wanted to follow thru with the truck theme.

Specs:  Outside of rocker to outside of rocker is 55.62", outside of door bar to outside of door bar is also 55.62".  Belly to highest point on the roof is 53.62" and length from front bumper to rear most tube is 139". Estimated chassis weight is 300-350lbs depending on bracing.

Motors - As per the FAQ:

Short block Chevy V8 w/ TH350 Shown

Pretty much anything can be made to fit.  4 cylinders are no problem and most 60 degree V6's are actually more compact than a lot of the inline 4's currently out there (Suzuki 1.3/1.6, Toyota 2.4/2.7l, etc).  About the only engines that would give me pause are 90 degree V8's like a Ford 5.4L or 4.6L since they are so darn wide. That said It is easy to make adjustments to the chassis so if you did have a blown 5.4L and wanted it in the chassis you could as long as you were willing to put up with a wider front end.  Inline 6's present another problem - length.  You'd have to stretch the nose of each chassis a few inches (assuming a front mounted radiator) except for the BMP 2 seater which was designed with a Jeep 4.0l drive train in mind.

If you go with a rear mounted radiator you should be able to fit just about anything.

For reference my 3.8L/904/D300 is roughly 54" long (pulleys to rear output), 28" Tall (oil pan to top of motor) and 22" wide at the valve covers.

Axles: Whatever you desire.

Suspension: The skies the limit. I run a dual triangulated 4 link front and rear utilizing 2.0" coilovers. Wheelbase in the plans is approximately 110" and with 40" tires the belly is approximately 21" above the ground. The wheelbase and belly clearance can be changed to suit your needs. For further suspension information please read thru all of my project buildups starting with Project BMP up thru Hellraiser 4 as well as my 4 link write ups in the tech section.

Things to keep in mind:

1. I make no warranties of any kind for the performance or durability of this chassis.  You are buying plans only. If you chose to fabricate something using these plans you assume all risk in the fabrication and operation of the project.

2.  You will need a basic knowledge of tube bending and access to a tube bender, welder, chop saw, etc. Access to a plasma cutter or cutting torch would be very helpful but is not required.  The chassis is designed around 1 5/8 tubing with a bend radius of 4.5"***.  Larger tubing  or bend radii could be used with some adjustments to the initial tube lengths.  there are no bends over 90 degrees,

*** It has been brought to my attention that the 4.5" radius die is no longer available from JD2. If using a 5.5" radius die you need to start all 90 degree bends an inch sooner (you can scale bends smaller than 90 degree's back from there) and the cut lengths can be approx .40" less than what is shown on the drawing.   

3.  The plans are meant to be a guide.  Since there is no way to get the bends to match the plans %100 expect to have to make small adjustments.  The plans do have suggested cut lengths and start points for the bends.  It will be your responsibility to cope the tube ends.  In spots where there are straight braces I usually provide a recommended tube size and length, however in most cases your best bet is to measure the distance between the nodes to determine the actual cut length.

4.  The plans only cover the dimensions of the basic chassis.  This means gussets, mounting tabs, suspension related mounts on the axles, body panels, component mounts, and all interior mounting tubing, etc are your responsibility. 

5.  I will include a recommended list of material for the basic chassis.  You may want to purchase additional material if you would like to leave extra material on the cuts or if you feel you may have to re-do a section of tubing.

For costing purposes I used approximately 8 sticks of 1.625 x .120 DOM, and 2 sticks of the following: 1.50 x .095 and 1.50 x .120 for the main chassis bracing. To save money you can get away with using HREW for any piece of tubing that does not contact rocks.