Project Hellraiser 4 Plans

Hellraiser 4 Chassis Plans



	Check out the Project Hellraiser 4 build for my conversion of my 3 seater to a 4 seater. Weight as shown is 3800lbs

This is my completed 4 seater variant which I am happy to say works as good if not better than the old 3 seater variant. The biggest difference is the added 3" of wheelbase, which if you have seen my videos you know that wheelbase is a plus on the verticals. Here is a video of the 4 seater climbing the S&M waterfall and the last fall on Matrix. If you are worried that a 4 seater can't perform like a 2 seater, don't.

This model is shown with PRP standard bench seat out back. Full sized seats could be used by stretching the rear portion further back. As you can see the front portion remains the same as the BMP chassis while the rear gets wider and the roof extended. There is roughly 12" of legroom for the rear seats and they sit up off the floor giving your legs a place to go (instead of sitting on a flat floor).

This chassis design is only 5 inches longer than my BMP chassis gains most of the passenger room via the wider rear end and a custom gas tank out back which allows the rear seats to have a decent amount of legroom. It looks like there will be ample storage both above the gas tank and below the rear seats. Wheelbase shown above is 111" although shorter is possible as shown below.

Specs: Outside of rocker to outside of rocker is 58.2", outside of door bar to outside of door bar is 53.6". Belly to highest point on the roof is 54" and length from front bumper to rear most tube is 138.4". Estimated chassis weight is 300-350lbs depending on bracing.

Advantages of my designs include:

The ability to pull the transmission and transfer case without pulling the motor (via the lower skid plate).

No bars near your head (unlike many homebuilt chassis designs).

A cockpit that is big enough to keep you from hanging outside of the chassis when seated.

A suspension that works excellent for both crawling and climbing.

Motors

Suzuki: 1.3, 1.6 or 2.0l motor should fit with a Samurai or Sidekick 5 speed and Samurai transfer case. I used to run a Toyota 5 speed transmission (85 4x4 Pickup) mated to a 1.6 16v motor via an SOS Ringr adapter. A stock Samurai radiator fits perfect up front.

Toyota: 22re (2.2l), 2rz (2.4l), 3.4l, 2rz(2.4l) or 3rz (2.7l) motor found in various Toyota pickups could also be used with a 5 speed transmission and dual Toyota transfer cases. If you run an automatic a 3.4l Toyota V6 should also fit.

Domestic: A Pontiac 3.8l V6, Chevy 4.3l V6, Chevy 4.8/5.3/5.7/6.0/LT1, Ford 5.0l to name a few. An automatic transmission is prefered as it makes the drive train length shorter and allows you to push the motor back to leave enough room up front for a good sized radiator. A 26 x 19" double pass Ron Davis radiator fits if you lay it back at an angle (this particular radiator keeps my supercharged 3.8l motor plenty cool). A manual transmission will work but wheelbase will need to be 102" or above.

Larger motors have been installed by other builders (including big blocks). Really if you think about it the difference between a 4.3 V6 and 5.3 V8 is only a few inches in length and the chassis is very easy to modify if you want to make the fenders a bit wider to accommodate whatever it is you want to use to power this chassis.

I Pictures and build up notes for a Supercharged 3.8l install can be seen here.

Axles: I am running Toyota truck axles from an 85 4x4. Pretty much any solid axle can be made to fit. I have personally run 1985 Toyota truck axles as well as narrowed D60's (60" wms to wms) under this chassis.

Suspension: The skies the limit. I run a dual triangulated 4 link front and rear utilizing 2.0" coilovers. Wheelbase in the plans is approximately 111" and with 39" tires the belly is approximately 23" above the ground. The wheelbase and belly clearance can be changed to suit your needs. For further suspension information please read thru all of my project buildups starting with Project BMP up thru Hellraiser 4 as well as my 4 link write ups in the tech section.

Steering: Full hydraulic via a double ended steering ram. A single ended steering ram could be used but you will need to modify the front link setup.

Tires: With the Toyota axles and 2" backspacing on the rims up to a 39" tire should fit fine. A narrow 42" tire also fits. With full width axles a tire larger than 42" in diameter could be used.

Things to keep in mind:

1. I make no warranties of any kind for the performance or durability of this chassis. You are buying plans only. If you chose to fabricate something using these plans you assume all risk in the fabrication and operation of the project.

2. You will need a basic knowledge of tube bending and access to a tube bender, welder, chop saw, etc. Access to a plasma cutter or cutting torch would be very helpful but is not required. The chassis is designed around 1 5/8 tubing with a bend radius of 4.5"***. Larger tubing or bend radii could be used with some adjustments to the initial tube lengths. there are no bends over 90 degrees,

*** It has been brought to my attention that the 4.5" radius die is no longer available from JD2. If using a 5.5" radius die you need to start all 90 degree bends an inch sooner (you can scale bends smaller than 90 degree's back from there) and the cut lengths can be approx .40" less than what is shown on the drawing.

3. The plans are meant to be a guide. Since there is no way to get the bends to match the plans %100 expect to have to make small adjustments. The plans do have suggested cut lengths and start points for the bends. It will be your responsibility to cope the tube ends. In spots where there are straight braces I usually provide a recommended tube size and length, however in most cases your best bet is to measure the distance between the nodes to determine the actual cut length.

4. The plans only cover the dimensions of the basic chassis. This means gussets, mounting tabs, suspension related mounts on the axles, body panels, component mounts, and all interior mounting tubing, etc are your responsibility.

5. I will include a recommended list of material for the basic chassis. You may want to purchase additional material if you would like to leave extra material on the cuts or if you feel you may have to re-do a section of tubing.

For costing purposes I used approximately 8 sticks of 1.625 x .120 DOM, and 2 sticks of the following: 1.50 x .095 and 1.50 x .120 for the main chassis bracing. To save money you can get away with using HREW for any piece of tubing that does not contact rocks.

The plans cost $85 which includes shipping to anywhere in the Continental US and Canada. For payment via credit card, debit card or paypal click on the "Buy Now" button below. As a bonus I also throw in 2 free DVD's (currently BTG Volume 3 & 3.5) so you can see what your new chassis can do. the bonus DVD offer is only available to buyers in the US. International orders are $98.

Note- you do not need a Paypal account to use your debit or credit card.

I also offer a discount for chassis plans buyers on the other DVD's I sell. This offer is only valid if you purchase the DVD's at the same time as the plans. Buying all 3 remaining DVD's saves you $20 over the single price. Shipping is free.

If you have any questions feel free to send an e-mail to sales@azrockcrawler.com,