Previous Page

This weekend I tried to get the front links in place. It seems like the front links are always a compromise due to all the stuff up front that they have to clear (engine, driveshaft, frame, exhaust, etc).  I aimed for keeping the anti-squat low (or anti-dive since it is the front axle) and tried to get the instant centerline a ways away from the axle.  Again I used a 42" tire for the calculations so the axle centerline is 21" from the ground and I am assuming 7" of up-travel?

I added another tube which will serve as a front upper link mount on the chassis side.

I was forced to re-visit the exhaust since it was a little too low on both sides.  I also didn't like the ball flange: after a closer look it was looking to be a major restriction du to the angle I had it set to. The solution was to cut the ball flange off which left a 2.5" diameter tube which I attached a 90 to that was made from a 2.5" diameter header bend. This solution also bumps up the exhaust ID from 2.25" to 2.50".

After grinding off the old spring perch on the axle I sleeved some HREW tubing to create some 1.75" dia x .188 wall tubing for the upper link mount bridge and put a 45 degree bends on each end..

The passenger side would set right on the steel axle tube while the passenger side of the axle bridge would land on the cast spring perch.  Since I don't have the tools to weld to the cast the correct way I went ahead  and made some bolt on plates to weld the axle bridge to.  This is the same setup I ran on my previous axle for 6 years with no issues.  I ground into the cast next to the spring perch in an effort to move the axle bridge as far to the right as I could.

Next I recycled the diff cover tie in pieces from my old rear D60 axle truss.

It took a good 4 hours to make and position all the pieces and only 2 minutes of welding to tack it all into place.

Next I setup my tube notcher with a 1" hole saw and angled it to 10 degrees before mounting it to the lower frame rail.  The resulting hole was filled with a sleeve made from a piece of 1" dia. crs. I will added a support tab for the other side once I get the boat side bracing installed.

The last thing I managed to get done before cleaning up for the weekend was to get the lower link tab on the axle mocked up.  I have it in boarded as much as possible to clear the tires when turned.  The passenger side tab is going to require a special tab that comes off of the axle bridge mounting plate.

What I came up with was a tab with a few bends in it that captures one of the bolts on the old spring perch. 

Update 5-20-10

I finally received my waterjet cut parts, a large chunk of which are for the front suspension links. This first batch was really a test to see how well my 3d model translates into the real world.

  The above set of plates form my upper link mount assembly that attaches to the front axle bridge.  I assembled and tacked together the lower piece and tabs on the bench utilizing a piece of 1.75 diameter tubing to confirm the fit once all the tabs were aligned with their mating slots in the lower piece.

With the tabs tacked to the lower plate I could then fit the upper plate. The materials used was .187" thick.  To beef up the area around the link mount bolts I used some weld washers I picked up from Ruffstuff which more than doubles the material thickness around the bolt.

No grinding required - the link mount assembly fit like a dream.

The chassis end upper link tabs started as a pair of plates.

Again, I used a pair of weld washers to increase the material thickness where it is needed.

The tabs tacked in place.

A plate made from some .25" stock was made to cap off the link mount tabs and will also serve as the floor.

Unfortunately the upper links collided with the motor mounts buy about an eighth of an inch.  I never hear anyone complain about having too much up travel so I re-did the motor mounts using some 1.50 x .120 wall tubing and some YJ spring bushings.  The new mounts have two bends in them allowing for about .25" clearance.

Next Page