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1.6 16v Motor Swap The next couple pages will detail
some of the stuff I went thru and needed to swap a fuel injected,
1.6, 16 valve motor into my trail rig. Some of the info on
these pages was found on the internet via message boards and
e-mails, some of it is my own experiences. The information
presented is meant as a guide, your results may vary. First you'll need to locate a donor
motor. The Suzuki Sidekicks and Geo Trackers are good
candidates, either one has had 1.6l, 8v and 16v motors at some
point. The 1.6 8v is a very easy swap, you can even use your
Samurai intake if you want to stay carbureted. The 16v swap is
more complicated and it is a different beast in layout compared to
the 8v. One of the reasons I chose the 16v route was it's
power output. While both the 8v and 16v put out comparable
horsepower (80-96hp vs. 64 for the 1.3) the 16v puts out most of
it's horsepower several thousand rpm sooner than the 8v. This
should be a big advantage for rockcrawling, more power at slower
speeds. I believe the 16v motors were
available as early as 92. Any 16v in a 95 or older Kick/Track
is ideal, beyond 96 you'll have to deal with OBDII which means a lot
of extra wires and sensors. From what I have heard you can
take a 96+ 1.6 and use an earlier distributor, ECU and wiring
harness to avoid the OBDII. My motor was from a 96 Geo Tracker
with an automatic transmission, the hardest version to swap from
what I have read. To accomplish this swap you will need the
motor, wiring harness, everything attached to the wiring harness,
instrument cluster and air cleaner assembly. You can make the
Samurai starter work so the donor engine's starter is optional.
If you can, also grab the catalytic converter. You can re-use
the Samurai fuel tank, radiator, fan shroud and clutch.
96 Geo Tracker motor with automatic transmission With
the use of a Petroworks
or Trail Tough
1.6 16v install kit you can connect your existing Samurai 5 speed to
the 1.6 16v. Some people have also swapped in the Kick/Track
transmission and transfer case but that's a whole other write up.
The Petroworks install kit includes new motor mounts that lower the
motor so it will clear the hood and moves it over slightly so the
exhaust manifold will clear the drivers side frame rail. You
will either need to move the radiator over and down to use the stock
fan or purchase an electric fan. I didn't have good luck with
using an electric fan on my 1.3 but I have heard the 1.6 16v runs a
lot cooler.
Petroworks motor mounts and transmission adapter plate The
fuel system requires a high pressure fuel pump that can put out at
least 45psi of pressure. I used an external fuel pump from an
89 Ford F-150. It is a two wire hookup and accepts a 5/16 fuel
line. For the connections I used high pressure rubber fuel
line between the motor and Samurai hard line, make sure you use fuel
line clamps so they clamp evenly all around the hose without digging
into the hose. Also, double clamp all the connections.
Between the fuel pump and tank I put a Purolator fuel filter (PN
F33144), this filter has a 1/4" npt connector on each end, a
pair of 5/16 hose barb fittings easily adapts this to the high
pressure fuel line. The fuel return line off of the 16v motor
is 1/4" and needs to be 1/4" to the tank to avoid building
up too much pressure. The Samurai return line was 3/16 but
there is an easy fix, swap the hoses on the breather hard line
(which is 1/4") with the fuel return hard line. Do the
same at the fuel tank.
Fuel pump and fuel filter |
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