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4 Link Rear
Suspension - Page 3
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With the links in
place I turned my attention to the brake lines. due to the
amount of droop this suspension is capable of, the lines need to be
mounted on the links. A soft line at each end of the link will
take care of the little bit of motion present when the axle
articulates.
How does it work?
After two trips I can
give some driving impressions. I'll update this page in a
couple weeks as I try more types of terrain.
The rear
suspension is neutral when accelerating, no lift of squat from the
back end which is what I was aiming for. On the road the
biggest thing you notice is the body lean.
This setup is much more plush than my previous leaf spring setup and
I feel it is a little too soft to be a daily driver. A sway
bar may cut down the body roll enough to make it a viable road
handler, or you could go with stiffer springs (say a 125/150
lb combo). I estimated the rear suspension was supporting
1000lbs of unsprung weight and gave that figure to Dave at
Polyperformance to calculate the required spring rates. I actually
think the unsprung weight is well under 1000lbs since I cut off the
back end, it's very easy to lift the rear end several inches by
myself. Anyway, I still think I got the spring rates nearly perfect
for off road use, more on that below.
Off road on two
track dirt roads the suspension really soaks up the bumps. A
good example is driving off of ledges, with the new setup the rig
just smoothly comes off the ledge and the springs absorb the impact
so you hardly notice it. With my leaf springs the impact was
pretty jarring and could be felt throughout the entire rig.
It really forced you to slow down to a crawl. The one fly in
the ointment comes when trying to climb loose inclines like seen in
the picture above. In 2wd there just isn't enough weight over
the rear suspension to push the tires into the ground and provide
traction. 4 high solves that problem but I decided to
experiment by moving some more weight over the rear axles.
 
I had welded
some tabs to the rear frame before I painted it with this scenario
in mind. Using some .5" x .06 wall tubing and some
3/4" conduit, I fabricated a small rack that sits above the
rear axle in the dead space behind my flat storage deck. The
rack will snugly hold 4 of the medium sized ammo boxes, 3 of them
shown in the picture above. Behind the ammo boxes is a small
recesse where I strapped my spare front axle shafts and spare front
drive shaft. All total I estimate that puts about an
additional 60 lbs over the rear axle between the axles, tools and
spare parts stored in the boxes. I'll know the results of this
experiment shortly.
Update - Moving some
more weight over the rear axle helped traction a little when in 2wd.
It also made the rig a little more stable when driving down dirt
roads. Before the change the rear end would swing out in
nearly every sharp curve, now it only does it if I apply too much
throttle or turn too sharply. After mounting the rack and
moving my boxes back I had to adjust the pre-load on the coil
springs to level out the back. I screwed the coil retainers
down another half inch and it cut the body roll quite a bit. I
also noticed the rig didn't feel so "floaty" at high
speeds.
Update
5-04-03
I believe I have the
rear coilovers tweaked so the body roll is almost eliminated. I have
been adjusting the preload nut a little bit before each trip and
then evaluating it's effect. These adjustments combined with
some stiffer front springs seems to have done the trick. After
a day of driving roads and 4 trails out in the Florence Junction
area I can say the sway when steering is gone, also high speed
driving on dirt roads feels as stable as my old leaf spring setup.
After bending a brand
new front leaf spring last weekend, I took my springs to Valley
Spring here in Phoenix and had them make me two new main leafs w/ a
military wrap second leaf. They used the remaining leafs from
my stock YJ rear pack (5 leaf). This pack is a little stiffer
than the original (it's not broken in yet), but the extra stiffness
helped reduce body roll and doesn't seem to have affected ride
quality. It's still nice and smooth on bumpy roads.

I also added a limit
strap to the rear axle. I welded a block in between my link
mount tower and the link mounts so it will act as a brace and
relieve some of the stress the tubing is seeing. The block was
then tapped in three places so I would have a little adjustment for
strap length. I also added a rib to the rear of the housing to
distribute the forces over a bigger area instead of just at the top
of the housing.

One thing about the
stiffer front springs, they don't stuff as well as the old ones as
you can see in the picture above. I suspect as I break them in
they will flex better. This is one tradeoff that should be
considered. They still stuff into the wheel well when the
other tire is forced into the something, in the picture above the
passenger side front tire is hanging in air.
Update
6-01-03
After more testing I
have determined that a 120/150 spring rate makes a pretty good
compromise between off road flex and on road stability. I have
the coilovers set so the upper springs can compress about 3 inches.
These setting combined with my limit strap set so there is no slack
with the suspension at rest has made the rig nice and stable at
speed while turning. Out of curiosity I moved the limit strap
so there was about an inch of slack and boy what a difference.
In corners the there was enough body roll to allow the back end to
break loose on corners very easily. It was scary enough that I moved
the limit strap back to being tight before we headed back to the
trailers. I think the last test I am going to do is try
running the 100lb coils with the 150's and see how it responds.
The
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